His story is about tragedy and triumph, talent and love. Marcus Samuelsson's history, charisma and culinary passion capture hearts. His global approach to Scandinavian cooking charms palates.

The James Beard Foundation named him Best Chef in New York City in 2003. Gourmet magazine called him "one of the most innovative chefs in the world" in the December 2000 issue. People magazine selected him as one of the most eligible bachelors in America in 2000.

A tuberculosis epidemic left Samuelsson orphaned at age 3 in Ethiopia, the country of his birth. He and his elder sister were adopted by a Swedish couple and grew up in the port city of Goteborg, Sweden.

Helga Jonsson, his Swedish grandmother, kindled his love of cooking. A private chef for a wealthy family, she encouraged her grandson to cook by her side at age 5 or 6.

"Some of my first memories center around her," says Samuelsson, chef and co-owner of Aquavit in New York City. "She was usually standing at the stove, so I remember her back more than her front. But, she was always on the move; it was tough just to keep up with her.

"And, although I grew up in a suburb, there were woods nearby. In summertime, we'd gather berries, such as lingonberries and currants. In fall, I learned about wild mushrooms; found out which were dangerous, which were delicious for pickling."

The holidays hold a special place in his childhood food memories. His grandmother's Christmas food preparations began in October, when she made her special vinegar used to pickle everything from fish to vegetables.

"There were jams of all kinds to put up and homemade mustards to add to the pantry," he writes about the grandmother's annual traditions in his new book, "Aquavit and the New Scandinavian Cuisine" (Houghton Mifflin, $45).

When asked for a December dinner party menu for home entertaining, Samuelsson, 32, suggested dishes created in the rustic warmth of his grandmother's kitchen.

For an elegant appetizer, he says to start with gravlax, a salt-sugar-dill-cured salmon with a silky-smooth texture. It can be prepared in advance and served with creamy mustard sauce and whole-grain bread.

For the entree, Samuelsson suggests the dish his grandmother made every week for Sunday dinner: Swedish roast chicken with spiced apple rice. He says his version is a little fancier than his grandmother's rendition.

Gravlax with mustard sauce

Yield: 10-12 as appetizer, more as part of buffet

For Gravlax:

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup kosher salt

2 tablespoons cracked white peppercorns

21/2 to 3 pounds skin-on salmon fillet, in 1 piece, any pin bones removed

2-3 large bunches fresh dill, coarsely chopped (including stems)

For mustard sauce:

2 tablespoons honey mustard

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons sugar

11/2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar

1 tablespoon cold strong coffee

Pinch salt

Pinch freshly ground black pepper

3/4 cup grapeseed oil or canola oil

1/2 cup chopped fresh dill

For serving: Whole-grain bread

Cook's notes: Gravlax will keep in the refrigerator (airtight) 7 days. Leftovers can be frozen, wrapped in plastic, then in aluminum foil, up to 2 months.

1. Prepare Gravlax: Combine sugar, salt and pepper in small bowl and mix well. Place salmon in shallow nonreactive dish and rub handful of salt mixture into both sides of fish. Sprinkle with remaining mixture and cover with dill. Cover dish and let stand 3 hours in cool spot.

2. Place in refrigerator 36 hours to cure.

3. Up to 1 day ahead of serving, prepare mustard sauce: Combine both mustards, sugar, vinegar, coffee, salt and pepper in blender. With machine running, add oil in slow, steady stream, blending until sauce is thick and creamy. Transfer to bowl and stir in dill. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight, to allow flavors to meld.

4. Scrape seasoning off Gravlax. Cut on diagonal into thin slices, or leave whole so your guests can slice it themselves. Serve with mustard sauce and bread.

Samuelsson's wine suggestion: Chardonnay or Reisling.

Nutritional information (per serving, calculated on 12 servings): Calories 153 (52 percent from fat); fat 8.9 g; protein 17.4 g; carbohydrates 1.8 g; no fiber; cholesterol 81 g; sodium 650 mg; calcium 30 mg.

Swedish roast chicken with spiced apple rice

Yield: 4 servings

For chicken:

1 medium sweet potato, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 large onion, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

2 shallots, coarsely chopped

1 garlic clove, peeled, chopped

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint

2 tablespoons water

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 cardamom pods or 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom

2 star anise; see cook's notes

2 whole cloves or 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

2 black peppercorns

4 white peppercorns (or 4 additional black peppercorns)

1 teaspoon salt, kosher preferred

1 (31/2-pound) chicken

For spiced rice:

1 cup long-grain white rice; see cook's notes for do-ahead rice preparation

1 cup water

1 teaspoon salt, kosher preferred

11/2 tablespoons plain yogurt

Freshly ground black pepper

Cook's notes: Star anise are star-shaped, dark brown pods native to China. It can be found in Asian markets or some supermarkets, either in the spice section or in the Asian specialties section.

Samuelsson prepares rice after chicken roasts. For less last-minute preparation, cook rice before company arrives (omit steps 6 and 7). Lightly brown 1 cup long-grain rice in 4 tablespoons butter or canola oil in medium-large saucepan on medium-high heat, stirring frequently. Add 2 cups chicken broth. Bring to boil; reduce heat to low and cover. Simmer, covered, 18 minutes or until broth is absorbed. Transfer to microwave-safe bowl and cover. Before serving, reheat in microwave oven.

1. Prepare chicken: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Blanch sweet potato in boiling water 2 minutes. Drain, rinse under cold water, drain again. In medium bowl, combine sweet potato, onion, apples, shallots, garlic, thyme and mint. In small bowl, stir water and olive oil; add to vegetable mixture and toss.

2. Using mortar and pestle, lightly crush cinnamon, cardamom, star anise, cloves, peppercorns and salt (or, combine spices on cutting board and crush with bottom of heavy pot). Add half of spice mixture to vegetable mixture and reserve rest.

3. Rinse chicken inside and out with cold water; pat dry with paper towels. If there are fat pads next to cavity opening, remove them. Lightly stuff bird's cavity with about half of vegetable mixture and tie legs together with cotton string. Place chicken on rack in roasting pan and rub all over with reserved spice mixture. Scatter remaining vegetable mixture around chicken.

4. Roast in preheated oven 11/2 hours or until instant-read thermometer inserted into thigh reaches 160 degrees. After first hour, or when vegetables in pan are tender, remove them from pan and set aside in bowl. Check pan occasionally as chicken roasts, adding water if it becomes dry.

5. When chicken is cooked, transfer to cutting board. Remove vegetables from cavity and add to vegetables in bowl. Cover chicken loosely with foil and let rest while you cook rice.

6. Prepare rice: Add a few tablespoons hot water to roasting pan, stirring well to deglaze pan. Pour liquid into measuring cup and slim off as much fat as possible. Add enough additional water to make 1 cup.

7. Combine rice, 1 cup water, 1 cup deglazing liquid and salt in medium saucepan. Bring to boil over high heat; reduce heat to low, cover and cook about 18 minutes or until rice is tender and all liquid absorbs.

8. Remove from heat and fold in yogurt and reserved vegetables. Taste and add salt and-or pepper as needed. Carve chicken and serve with rice.

Samuelsson's wine suggestion: California Pinot Noir.

Nutritional information (per serving): Calories 366 (31 percent from fat); fat 12.6 g; protein 21.6 g; carbohydrates 41.6 g; no fiber; cholesterol 55 g; sodium 320 mg; calcium 66 mg.