http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/2008-01/emptied-north-dakota/bowden-text.html.)">

The empty prairie is still a good place to live

 
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Jan 13, 2008 - 04:05:24 CST
(This is the first of two columns Clay Jenkinson is writing about the January 2008 National Geographic article on North Dakota. You can find the article at http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/2008-01/emptied-north-dakota/bowden-text.html.)

We need to take a deep breath. The furor over the January issue of National Geographic is almost as silly as the article it contains on rural decline in North Dakota. The article, written by Charles Bowden with photographs by Eugene Richards, is melodramatic and arguably biased. It lacks balance and context. But the central premise is irrefutable. Rural North Dakota is being abandoned.

This can hardly be called news.

"The Emptied Prairie" belongs to a journalistic genre known as the "dying town story." In this case, it is more of a "dying state story," which is one reason why folks here are all stirred up. Dying town stories are a staple of Great Plains journalism. They are expected to have a kind of haunting elegiac feel and to emphasize words like "windswept," "forlorn," "stark" and, above all, "vanished." In this regard, "The Emptied Prairie" does not disappoint.

It's a formula. Find the last guy in the last cafe, the old man walking along the railroad tracks, the crib in the abandoned farmhouse with a wind-bleached doll lying on its side.

I was really glad to see one of my closest friends, Patti Perry of Marmarth, quoted in the article. I feel certain she'll whup Bowden if he ever dares to turn up again in Marmarth's delightful Pastime restaurant. Not that she would disagree with his thesis, but I can hear her saying, "Geez, stop wringing your hands and talking about tragedy and saying asinine stuff like 'something in the earth and the sky mutinied against the settlers.'"

The actual argument thesis of Bowden's article is that although the overall population of North Dakota is stable, the rural districts are undergoing rapid and seemingly irreversible depopulation. Who can refute this? Divide County, population 2,092 in 2006, down 8.4 percent since 2000. Billings County, population 829, down 6.6 percent. Slope County, population 713, down 7 percent. Bowman County, 2,991, down 7.7 percent. Golden Valley County, 1,691, down 12.1 percent. Adams County, 2,332, down 10.1 percent. Hettinger County, 2,564, down 5.6 percent. Dunn County, 3,443, down 4.4 percent. Burke County, 1,947, down 13.2 percent. Renville County, 2,425, down 7.1 percent.

Very bad, but listen to this. Stark County (home of Dickinson), 22,167, down 2.1 percent. Ward County (home of Minot), 55,207, down 6 percent. Williams County (home of Williston), 19,456, down 1.5 percent.

Half of the population of North Dakota now lives east of Carrington. Almost 40 percent of the North Dakota population now lives east of Interstate 29. Bismarck, Mandan, Minot, Grand Forks and, above all, Fargo, are thriving. The villages, especially those west of the Missouri River, are "drying up and blowing away," as Bowden might put it. Our towns are struggling. We've become an urban state, a vast landscape punctuated by thriving "city states," with an increasingly abandoned countryside. And the great migration is not nearly over.

I do regard this phenomenon as a very sad thing. I believe North Dakota was a better place when our population was more evenly diffused across the landscape, when the towns had vibrant business districts, when people shopped locally, when farms were defined by the number of acres rather than the number of sections they encompassed. I believe that something essential in the North Dakota character is being lost - forever - as our agrarian, our small town, heritage ebbs away. I worry about what North Dakota will be when we have filtered our lives through Best Buy, Bed Bath & Beyond and Starbucks as thoroughly as everyone else in America.

Easy for me to say. I live in Bismarck, not Epping. I shop at Best Buy. Most North Dakotans, indeed most of my friends, are far less nostalgic for the heritage of North Dakota than I am. A few of them declare - with some acerbity - good riddance to all that. What Bowden failed to realize is that even those North Dakotans who lament what has passed and is still to pass, have largely come to terms with it. That's why they are annoyed by his pose of mawkish bewilderment.

Here's why Bowden's article upsets us. First, nobody can deny that tens of thousands of North Dakotans have departed for more promising places in the past half-century, but for most of those who are still here, things never have been so good. We have more money, better jobs, better and more reliable vehicles, greater comfort, greater mobility, dramatically more variety in our food and almost infinitely better access to the fruits of life as Americans define their pursuit of happiness. Hey, Charles Bowden, don't rain on our parade. The irony of this, of course, is that the amenities boom in North Dakota is largely an urban phenomenon, made possible by the abandonment of those farmhouses Richards loves to photograph.

Second, this is a time of unprecedented prosperity in North Dakota. If we were experiencing rural depopulation and economic depression at the same time, we might lose more sleep. But as long as good times continue, North Dakotans seem willing to find a way to deal with the demographics.

Third, it offends us when people like Bowden assume that rural depopulation is inevitably a sign of failure, broken dreams and "abandoned human desire." Maybe it's a sign of good sense and intelligent life-planning. It offends us, too, when people like Bowden suggest that those who still live here are yokels who are too stupid to join the parade, to get their jalopies on Route 66 in search of a better life. Contrary to Bowden's suggestion, the suicide rate in North Dakota is comparatively low.

Most of us like it here.

Here's some consolation. A misguided article in National Geographic is not going to change the nation's perception of North Dakota. No couple in Tampa or Portland with the moving van full is going to pause at the onramp and say, "Gee, honey, now that we've read this article, maybe we should rethink our plan to become new North Dakota pioneers."

Patti, get your gloves on and whup him.

n Next week: Did our pioneers really believe that rain follows the plow?

(Clay Jenkinson is the Theodore Roosevelt scholar-in-residence at Dickinson State University. He lives in Bismarck. Contact Jenkison at Jeffysage@;aol.com.)
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The empty prairie is still a good place to live
Comments

Paul wrote on Jan 19, 2008 6:54 PM:

" Hey. Another one of those deserters (actually have been called that by family members) who left NoDak for warmer climes and better job opportunities. I found the article fascinating. It brought back mountains of memories of my last few years in the state (early 80s) when the beginning of the end was evident. The other thing all North Dakotans should know is that the story that was written could be anchored in just about any of the 50 states. All of them are experiencing waning rural areas and burgeoning metro areas. I now live in Minnesota. I can take you to a few communities on the Iron Range that would provide the same scenes and the same individuals saying the same things as the NoDakers in the piece. It's less about North Dakota than it is about a trend across the United States, away from the rural agrarian roots and toward a more urban-based society. Personally, the more time I spend in urban-land the more I yearn to come back and try living in Amidon or Epping or Glenburn or Bowman. "

Boomerang wrote on Jan 15, 2008 8:52 PM:

" In North Dakota the quality of the people in is far more important then the quantity that inhabits these wide open prairies "

NDGEEGEE wrote on Jan 14, 2008 3:42 PM:

" Call me a sceptic,but I don't know any bride from anywhere that would leave her gown and wedding memorabilia in an abandoned house.I would think that those are a brides most cherished possesions. I found the pictures in the article to be contrived.
I had alway given a gift of NG to my father and if he were still living,he would be sorely disappointed that someone has painted a sorry picture of his beloved state.
Unfortunately one who has not grown up in the state can not understand the lure
of always going home .

"

Allen wrote on Jan 14, 2008 9:09 AM:

" Seriously,

Have you been out in the country lately there Clay? "...the amenities boom in North Dakota is largely an urban phenomenon..." You apparently don't recognize the difference in farmsteads. Perhaps you should dust off one of those history books with pics of those old abandoned farmsteads when they were occupied.

I grew up with distant relatives that did not have running water in the 1970s. Those are the farmsteads that have been abandoned and since replaced, although not on a one-for-one basis. The modern amenities of running water, electricity, plumbing, satellite TV, and computers have been added to the landscape many years ago. "

IwannagobacktoND wrote on Jan 14, 2008 8:45 AM:

" What got to me about the article is how staged the photos are. Crisp, windswept curtains in a house that has been abandoned for years? Clean white bedspread? I rode my bicycle many miles on that abandoned highway by Belfield. Maybe that could be a new cycling tour in ND!! Cycling around the empty prairies! Hmmm, I guess that is when I first heard of Charbonneau, ND---on a bicycle tour 15 years ago. This is part of the charm of North Dakota along with the good people.
I live in TX now and the ghost towns are here too, the only difference is that people still live in the "abandoned" houses. "

Jennifer wrote on Jan 13, 2008 11:16 PM:

" I am a North Dakota native currently living out of state -- that's correct, part of that outward mass migration mentioned in the contentious National Geographic article. I, however, thought the article was pretty well-balanced when I read it. it tells the story of a specific phenomenon occurring in rural areas, and it seemed to me that it tried to clarify that this trend does not hold true for the entire state (namely the urban areas). While the article is not entirely flattering, it doesn't appear in a tourism brochure, but in a magazine looking for unique stories from around the world that pique people's curiosity. Who knows -- maybe it even led some readers to come and check out other ND websites for themselves? "

Edward wrote on Jan 13, 2008 2:18 PM:

" Clay, your use of we and us in your article is a bit presumptuous. Not all North Dakotans took the article in a manner that begged so for a response. Not being a native, only 32 years living here, answer me this; Why are native North Dakotans so easily offended by any observation that may put even a minor negative light on any portion of the State? Just consider the source and walk away. Remember an empty wagon makes the most noise. "

Larry wrote on Jan 13, 2008 11:16 AM:

" Charles Bowden accentuates the negative, but so what! We live here; we know what life in Western North Dakota is like. Some of us will stay and some will move away. It has been that way for years. Our high school graduates go everywhere and do everything. Mother and Father had three sons, I am the eldest, the other two moved out of North Dakota. One moved because the career he wanted to pursue was not viable in North Dakota. Today he owns his own business in Minneapolis, with branch offices in Menlo Park, California. The other longed for the mountains and the sea, so he moved to Portland. He is now Vice President of a nationwide company. I became a teacher in North Dakota. I communicate and visit them often. They always remark what a great time they had growing up in Bismarck, what a great education they received and how invigorating the climate was/is; at heart they are still strong, proud, fiercely independent North Dakotans. The words "empty prairie" are not an insult but a complement to what we have. Yes, we do not have large factories. Yes, we do not have a large population. Yes, we don't have to commute to work in heavy traffic. What we have are magnificent vistas, fresh air and fabulous neighbors. The emptiness forces us to know our neighbors because of the companionship and need to have friends in unexpected situations. The outflow of some of our brothers or sisters or children is not a bad thing. It gives us a different place to visit and an understanding of how other places, in our nation, function. Their homes become a home base for us, in what is probably a dense metropolitan area. My brothers have unique toys and experiences they share, unique because of where they live. Don't dwell on what we are allegedly missing dwell on what we have. We are living a very unique lifestyle that few Americans have or can even dream of; we are living and thriving in the vast lane. "

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